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Bin and barrel composting: compost in a small space.

You don’t need a farm to make compost. A drum or bin in a corner of a compound, balcony or backyard can turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into dark, crumbly compost for pots, kitchen gardens and small plots.

Build a drum composter What to put in

at a glance

What to expect

6–8 wk for the fastest method, with frequent turning. Easier methods take months. SOURCE: UC MASTER GARDENERS (SACRAMENTO)
200–250 L a typical drum size, big enough for a household and small enough to move or turn. SOURCE: CONTAINER COMPOSTING, KUMASI, GHANA
< 1.2 cm the largest air hole to use if you want to keep rats out. SOURCE: UC MASTER GARDENERS (SACRAMENTO)
choose a container

Four ways to compost in a container

All of them work on the same principle: give the microbes food, moisture and air, and keep the pests out.

Cheapest

Drum with a lid

An old plastic or steel drum with air holes drilled around it. Easy to find, easy to move, and easy to keep closed against rats and flies.

Simple

Open-bottom drum on soil

A drum with the lid and bottom cut away and air holes in the sides, set in shade on bare soil. Worms and soil life can move in from below. Keep it full.

Households

Double-chamber bin

Two side-by-side bins built from blocks, bricks, wood or concrete. You fill one while the other matures. Leave gaps in the bottom course for air.

Easy mixing

Tumbler drum

A drum on an axle that you rotate to mix and aerate. It is less work, but costs more. In Ghana, a steel tumbler was beyond what many periurban households could afford without help.

SOURCES: CONTAINER COMPOSTING (KUMASI, GHANA); “MAKING COMPOST IN A STEEL DRUM” BASIC GUIDE

build a drum composter

Step by step

  1. Pick a safe drumUse a plastic or steel drum of about 200 to 250 litres. Do not use one that held chemicals, pesticides, fuel or anything toxic.
  2. Make air holesDrill plenty of holes around the sides, spaced about a hand-width apart, and near the base for drainage. Keep each hole under 1.2 cm so rats can’t get in. A lid with a few small holes also helps.
  3. Raise it and catch the drainageIf the bottom is closed, stand the drum on bricks with a tray underneath to collect the liquid that drains out. If you cut the bottom out, stand the drum on bare soil.
  4. Put it in the shadePlace it in a shady spot near your kitchen or garden, so it doesn’t dry out and so it’s easy to feed.
  5. Start with dry materialPut a layer of dry browns in the bottom, such as dry leaves, straw or shredded cardboard, then moisten them.
  6. Feed it in layersAdd kitchen scraps and other greens, then cover them with a layer of browns. Repeat. Chop or shred everything first, because small pieces rot faster.
  7. Close the lidKeep it shut to keep out rats and flies, and to stop heavy rain from waterlogging it.
feeding the bin

What goes in, and what stays out

Browns (carbon)Greens (nitrogen)Keep out
Dry leaves, straw, dry grass, shredded paper and cardboard, coffee filters, wood shavings, eggshells, chopped woody prunings Vegetable and fruit peelings, grass clippings, green leaves, young weeds, flowers, tea leaves and bags, coffee grounds, herbivore manure Meat, bones and fish, dairy, grease, dog, cat and bird droppings, diseased plants, invasive weeds, sawdust from treated wood. Sticks and brushwood take too long to rot.

Getting the balance right.

For the fastest method, some guides suggest roughly equal volumes of browns and greens. Kitchen scraps are very wet, so most bins need more browns than that. If in doubt, start with two to three parts brown to one part green, as in What is compost?, and adjust by smell and feel. Feed little and often: filling a bin too quickly compacts it and makes it rot.

SOURCES: UC MASTER GARDENERS (SACRAMENTO); CONTAINER COMPOSTING (KUMASI); “MAKING COMPOST IN A STEEL DRUM”

managing the bin

Moisture, mixing and timing

  • Moisture. Keep it about as damp as a wrung-out sponge. In dry weather sprinkle water (kitchen wastewater works). Too much water makes mud, and too little leaves it mouldy and half rotted.
  • Mixing. Stir or turn the contents to bring in air. A sharp stick or a garden fork works for a bin you can’t tip.
  • Burying scraps. Push food waste 15 to 30 cm into the middle of the bin so flies don’t find it.
  • Drainage. Dilute any liquid you collect about 1 part to 10 parts water and apply it to the soil. Keep it off the leaves of vegetables you’ll eat soon.

How long does it take?

MethodTurningReady in
RapidEvery 3 days at first, then weekly6 to 8 weeks
MixedAbout weekly3 to 8 months
SlowWhen you feel like it12 to 18 months

These timings come from a US extension guide, so treat them as a rough guide. Your climate and materials will change them.

Two containers beat one.

In a closed drum or bin, fresh scraps keep restarting the process, so a bin that is always being topped up rarely finishes. Fill one container, then stop adding to it and let it mature while you fill a second. When the second is full, empty the first. (An open-bottom drum on soil is the exception: it is usually kept full.)

SOURCES: UC MASTER GARDENERS (SACRAMENTO); CONTAINER COMPOSTING (KUMASI); “MAKING COMPOST IN A STEEL DRUM”

when it goes wrong

Common bin problems

ProblemLikely causeFix
Smells rottenToo wet, or too many food scraps. Too much nitrogen makes the pile putrid, acidic and compact.Turn it and add dry browns such as leaves, sawdust or straw.
FliesFood scraps left exposed, or items that shouldn’t be in there.Bury scraps 15 to 30 cm deep, remove meat, dairy and grease, and turn.
Rats or miceExposed food, holes too large, or meat and grease inside.Keep holes under 1.2 cm, keep the lid on, bury food and remove meat and grease.
Not breaking downToo dry or too wet, too many browns, or too little nitrogen.Add water until slightly damp, or turn if it is soggy. Add fresh greens.
Compacted, slimyFilled too quickly, so air can’t get in.Remove the top layers, add browns, and make more air holes.

SOURCES: UC MASTER GARDENERS (SACRAMENTO); CONTAINER COMPOSTING (KUMASI)

ready, and what next

Using your compost

Finished compost is dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling, with nothing recognisable left in it. It should be cool, not hot. Use the checks and the germination test in What is compost? and on our Trust page before you use it on seedlings.

For beds, pots and planting holes, use the same guidance as for heap compost. Mix it into the topsoil rather than leaving a thick layer on top, and keep unused compost in the shade or covered.

See how much to apply

Questions people ask

Will it smell or attract pests in my compound?

A well-managed bin with a lid, small holes and a good mix of browns and greens should not. Smells and pests nearly always come from too many wet scraps, exposed food, or meat and grease.

Can I do this on a balcony or in a flat?

Yes, with a small closed bin. A drum may be too big. For very small spaces, bokashi or worm composting may suit you better.

Can I add cooked food?

It attracts pests, and in a plain bin it is best avoided, along with oil. Bokashi is designed to handle cooked food and leftovers.

Do I need worms?

No. Worms are for a separate method, vermicomposting. An ordinary bin relies on microbes.

What if I only have kitchen waste?

You can, but you’ll need a steady supply of dry browns, such as dry leaves, shredded paper or cardboard, to avoid a sour, wet bin.

next step

Want help setting one up?

We train households, schools and institutions to set up and run compost bins from the waste they already produce.

See our training Compare other methods